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What Kind of Stump Grinding Options You Can Go For

The stumps are bulky and sometimes dangerous. Their destruction is often difficult, their extraction often impossible, if not at the cost of works which disfigure the garden.As a reminder, here are a few more discreet methods, relatively known, but which require a little patience.Because the diffusion of the products is carried out better in wet ground, one will proceed, if possible, before winter. This is the reason that for the proper stump grinding in Atlanta you would need the best options.

The first 3 methods can be practiced by amateur gardeners

1st method (effective on “young” trees)

Drill holes 3 or 4 cm in cross section and 10 to 20 cm deep (10 holes for a stump 30 cm in diameter). Fill these holes with sodium chlorate (after 2 to 3 months, we will replace if necessary). We will pack the powder well and protect the holes from the rain. After about 6 months of impregnation, we will remove the stump from the earth that surrounds it as well as possible, we will extract some shavings which we will let dry on it. Then, with a little dead wood, we will fire the stump which will burn without flame for a few days.

Watch out for underground pipes. Hardwood species (such as cherry, oak, beech, pear, apple, etc.) often resist this treatment, so the second method is preferred.

2nd method (for hardwood and old stumps)

We use a mixture (explosive) of potassium nitrate (saltpetre) and sodium chlorate or better, pure potassium nitrate, very effective and less polluting since without chlorine.

3rd method

One can also stimulate the decomposition of the strain with ammonium sulfamate (method adapted to white wood species). The solid product is spread in a layer on the cutting surface that is to say about 25 grams per 10 cm in diameter. The strain will decompose. Unfortunately, ammonium sulfate is difficult to find commercially. If it is an old strain, sulfamate and, of course, potassium nitrate in low doses will significantly accelerate decomposition, then composting of a wide variety of organic materials (leaves, straw, manure) covering the stump by 40 cm, are likely to reduce the decomposition time.

4th method – grinding the stumps

This is should be done by the most effective and fastest method, practiced by professionals. Two possibilities exist for important stumps and as far as access to the garden allows.

For small construction sites and for stumps of 30 to 50 cm maximum diameter, use a grinder provided with “fingers” covered with tungsten arranged on a rotor activated by a generally gasoline engine placed on a chassis, whether or not towed, mower type. We move the machine from left to right and from right to left.

  • For larger stumps and sites, use a radio controlled shredder hitched to the rear of a tractor or on a track or wheels.
  • The material trims all stumps located in all terrains, even steep, muddy, and wooded.
  • The destruction of the stumps on site leaves only the shavings and avoids the bulky and heavy evacuation of these by machines which are not very respectful of the soil.
  • It can carry out any pruning, felling, and grinding and stump removal. Contact us for a free quote.

Remarks:

For small jobs, some prefer to use herbicides. These products are, in fact, “antibiotics” and are not likely to stimulate the natural processes of decomposition.

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